Price: $599.00
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James Suckling: 98 Points
Burnt butter, creme brulee and caramel, dried apricots, bread dough, bread crust, biscuit and dried peaches. More mineral than other bottlings from this producer, this full-bodied Champagne nevertheless packs in so much concentration and depth. Amazing, burnt-caramel and white-stone undertones, reminiscent of fino Sherry. Very long indeed. Drink now or hold.
Wine Advocate: 96 Points
The latest NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru V.O. (Version Originale) is based on the 2018 vintage with some 40% reserve wines from 2017 and 2016 and was disgorged in July 2024 without dosage. This is another success, bursting from the glass with aromas of dried flowers, walnut, and fig. It’s sourced from top of the slopes in Avize and Cramant, sites that are cooler and windier than those that inform the Initial, which helps preserve acidity better than the lower-altitude vineyards. The yields here are low, and the berries are small, resulting in high concentration. With hard chalk very close to the surface, it’s a flamboyant wine with tensile personality, laden with incisive acids, complemented by a pinpoint mousse and concluding with a long, bone-dry finish. Guillaume observes that the “Initial is more horizontal, while V.O. is more vertical,” and I agree.
Jeb Dunnuck: 95 Points
This release of NV Champagne Blanc de Blancs V.O. Extra Brut (Version Originale) was disgorged in April of 2021. It pours a rich straw color with a golden hue, and the nose is expressive, intoxicating, and round, revealing a generous liqueur of hazelnuts, praline, golden apple, and toast. Dry, with rich extract and concentration throughout, the texture is fine yet persistent with chalkiness and underlying tension, with its toffee notes continuing to envelop the long finish. It is drinking exceptionally well and should continue to drink well over the next 10 or more years.
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