I’ve never before smelled a wine like this. The captivating aromas are amazing, with lavender, sage, dried potpourri, blackberries, tar, pepper and black licorice. Full-bodied with super tannins that fan out and caress the palate. It’s ethereal and endless. A pure syrah from the owners of Clos Apalta, from unique mountain vineyards. Just over 6,000 bottles made. Try to give this four or five years of bottle age. Best after 2028.
The 2021 Clos du Lican is special stuff, and I’d be happy to line it up with the best Syrahs in the world. Revealing a deep purple hue as well as stunning aromatics of darker berries, cassis, smoked herbs, sappy spring flowers, and ground pepper, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a pure, seamless mouthfeel, flawless balance, and sweet tannins. All Syrah from a higher elevation site, with roughly 400 cases made, it’s unquestionably the finest Syrah I’ve tasted from South America, and it stylistically seems to be a mix of a great California Syrah (think Sine Qua Non) with its fruit-driven style and purity, with just a kiss of Old World game, meatiness, and minerality. Nevertheless, it’s not for the challenging-vintage-from-the-Northern-Rhône-or-bust crowd with its ripeness (it’s 15% alcohol), purity, classy oak, and utterly pleasure-bent style. Will it evolve like a great Hermitage or Côte Rôtie? Time will tell, but hats off to winemaker Charles de Bournet for a legit sensational Syrah. If you get a chance, buy this wine.
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